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  #11  
Old 01-24-2012, 08:17 PM
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Maverick Maverick is offline
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by herefishy View Post
I'm going to start working on that curve cast - to where I can do it when I want to, not when I don't.
Exactly. Once you feel mechanically what it is like to make a curve cast you will then know how to take it out of your regular casting motion to give you that smooth, crisp, tight loop.

I think that will be the easiest way for you to work backwards out of it. Or just stop flipping your wrist at the end jk jk.
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2012, 08:20 PM
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Maverick Maverick is offline
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Not sure how the evil frowny face got on there, nor do I know how to get it off since it won't let me edit it out. I swear I'm not mad. Sorry.
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  #13  
Old 01-26-2012, 08:17 AM
herefishy herefishy is offline
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It just came out as jk jk. Weird
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  #14  
Old 10-20-2012, 07:07 PM
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DrLogik DrLogik is offline
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I'll offer my advice and it's pretty simple. Get Joan Wulff's casting DVD. Casting a fly line is easy...it is! You just have to have the right mechanics working for you, not against you. Joan's video explains how in the simplest terms. It works.
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  #15  
Old 02-06-2015, 09:21 AM
Silver Creek Silver Creek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herefishy View Post
I seem to get pretty good distance and fairly good accuracy, but instead of my line laying out straight, it comes down in curves. Am I "releasing" the cast too soon?
I would like to see a video of you casting.

Without a video, my suggestion is to start with shorter casts that do lay out and then begin extending them.

My three 3 top tips for a beginner are:

Rule 1. Remove all slack line and start cast with rod tip pointed to the water or the lawn.

Beginners ALWAYS start with the rod level or angled up with slack in the fly line. This results in the casting motion removing the slack rather than moving the fly. The beginner then has to take the rod way back, with the arm fully extended in a windshield wiper motion to remove slack and move the fly. This result in a big loop and an under powered back cast that cannot the load the forward cast.

A low rod position with all slack removed allows a compact casting motion to cast the line.


Rule 2. The stroke is a smooooothhhhh increasing acceleration with the greatest acceleration just before the stop.

Beginners start too fast and end too slow. The optimized cast is just the opposite.

This smooth increasing acceleration optimally loads the fly rod without the dips that cause a tailing loop. The smooooth acceleration prevents waves in the fly line and does not "shock" the rod.


Rule 3. The stop must be sudden and hard.

Beginners end too slow. They slow down just before the stop and this robs energy from the cast because the unbending or straightening of the fly rod occurs over a longer distance and time and it widens the loop.

Emphasize the hard stop.

The cause of a cast that does not extend is too little power for the length of the cast and/or too wide a loop.

A common beginner fault (#3) that is easy to correct is an improper stop. The rod stop at the end of the cast must be HARD. Without a hard stop, there is inefficient transfer of the energy in the fly rod to the fly line.

A way to practice this is to get a paint brush and stand facing an outside wall of your home. Dip the paint brush in water and perform your casting stroke with a hard stop aiming the water spray at the level of your forehead.

Do the same thing with your back about one foot from the wall and aim the brush tip up where your backcast would normally go.

To get a hard spray of water, you must both smoothy accelerate the paint brush with the maximum acceleration just before the HARD stop. If you accelerate too soon, the water from the paint brush will not stay on the brush. So this method forces you to both accelerate smoothly and to perform hard stop and the water will show you the direction of your stop which will be the direction the fly line would go.
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  #16  
Old 02-06-2015, 03:37 PM
herefishy herefishy is offline
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Thanks for the suggestions, Silver, will go out this weekend and practice them. I remember the paintbrush trick, but use it all too seldom.
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  #17  
Old 02-07-2015, 05:06 PM
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almostlost almostlost is offline
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x2 on drifting back and up slightly-if you don't already.

Also the water load is crucial, especially if your not false casting-it's like lining up your truck for backing up a trailer-if you do it right from the get go, you wont be going back and forth which is where mistakes are made.

p.s. i don't know your skill level so please disregard if this is basic stuff. good luck
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  #18  
Old 02-08-2015, 11:38 AM
herefishy herefishy is offline
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Skill level is long time mediocre caster. Been doing this forty years, poorly. This is the year I'm going to get better.
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