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  #11  
Old 12-06-2011, 09:23 PM
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TimL TimL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herefishy View Post
Gotta be more to that story - where's the other half?
I had to look at that one twice too. If you are talking about the other half of the fish, it has a leaf covering part of the back end.
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  #12  
Old 12-06-2011, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herefishy View Post
Gotta be more to that story - where's the other half?
Not sure what you mean.
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  #13  
Old 12-06-2011, 09:46 PM
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beautiful fish!

One way to extend a roll cast is to delay the rod tip movement, it sounds weird, but you make the same motion, but instead of applying the power instantly like you do with a false or normal roll cast, you wait and use the extra feet your rod gives you to let the line leave the tip after the rod is extended forward. I can show you out at the pond, it's hard to describe but is very simple.

The general rule for hauling is as your rod is moving your hand is moving too, but it really does require lots of timing and practice.

Look up a "jump roll cast" it is used for distances over 50 feet to roll cast.

Also the design of the fly line will alter your roll casting distance. Think about it, a Weight Forward line has typically 5-10 ft of front taper then 20-30 feet of belly, the thick stuff, then it turns to running line which is very thin. So if you are roll casting as the loop forms if you don't have enough speed the heavy part of the belly collapses over the thinner line and doesn't allow the leader to extend. This is why on some of my creek rods I throw a double taper line instead of a WF.
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  #14  
Old 12-07-2011, 09:50 AM
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mvtoro mvtoro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flygirl View Post
This is why on some of my creek rods I throw a double taper line instead of a WF.
+1. DT on most of my lines 3 weight and under.
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  #15  
Old 12-07-2011, 10:07 AM
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Another tool you can use is the steeple cast.

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