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  #11  
Old 01-21-2018, 10:32 AM
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Ragen Ragen is offline
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Posts: 178
Split bamboo

Got the culm halves split and was just able to get enough tip strips for two tips for each rod. As I go through the process of making the rods I hope it stays that way... You just never know with bamboo. I do have a couple of spare strips from another culm that I will be processing along side these just in case. Here is a photo of the culms being split and the tools I prefer to use. I'll need to mark the node spacing next and then cut the strips to length. In the photo of the split strips... Ends marked black are for the butt sections and red is for tips


Last edited by Ragen; 01-21-2018 at 12:04 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-27-2018, 05:52 AM
creekhiker creekhiker is offline
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Still here for the show.

Is that a special machete? Lol. The flaming turned out real nice!
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2018, 09:13 PM
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Ragen Ragen is offline
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Back to working on these rods

These rods are based on a Payne 101 taper. The rods are 7'6" rods. The rod sections are each 45". The blanks are actually a little less once we take into account for the ferrules. For now 45" works for me. A lot of rod makers who use traditional planing forms also give themselves some wiggle room and add 2" of waste to each end of the strip, so 45" + 4 = 49" long strips. Because I use a Morgan Hand Mill (MHM) to plane strips I allow myself 3" at each end so that I have enough to secure the strips to the anvil. So in my case I will cut the strips to 51" after I figure out the node spacing.
I use a 2x2 node spacing pattern. The weakest part of a bamboo rod is at the nodes so I don't want all of the nodes in one spot. I also don't want any nodes within 4" of the tip top or the ferrules. 4" would be the minimum. The more distance away from them the better. I lay out some masking tape and then mark the rod length, waste, reel seat, grip, and ferrules for the butt section. I do it again for the tip sections but only mark the tip top and ferrule. Once i have my guide I take three strips and slide the strips so that I have approximately 3" between the nodes on the 3 strips. I then slide them along the tape guide to see where the nodes fit best. Once I have them where I like them I tape them to the work bench and mark the cut-off points for each strip. I use a 2x2 spacing so I mark a pair of strips at a time. Once all of the strips are marked I cut them to the 51" length and my nodes are spaced correctly. In the photo below all the strips have been cut to length and the nodes have the correct spacings and alignments. I like to use a black Sharpie to mark blond strips but a silver Sharpie works best for flamed strips.


Last edited by Ragen; 02-19-2018 at 09:24 PM.
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